Dario Prinčič - no ordinary Pinot Grigio

If you thought all Pinot Grigio was indifferent pale coloured slop, think again.

Think Pinot Grigio, think insipid, water-white plonk? Think again. Here's a 100% Pinot Grigio from Friuli Collio which confounds everything you ever knew about the variety. Dario Prinčič's version macerates on its skins for around eight days during fermentation. Have a look at the photo. No photoshopping, rather an apt reminder that this is a pink-skinned grape variety and a clone of Pinot Noir to boot.

Prinčič is no bandwagon-jumper when it comes to producing wine like this. He's been making "orange" wine since the late 1990s, having taken to it quickly after his neighbours Stanko Radikon and Josko Gravner repopularised the idea. Prinčič has long been a staunch believer in tradition, farming biodynamically since 1988, and going the low-intervention route in the winery - wild yeasts, no filtering or fining, no temperature control and little or no added sulphites.

His Pinot Grigio 2013 has a brooding brownish copper hue, its colour no less intense than the flavours inside the bottle. It …