12 years of Xinomavro

SUMMER 2003, CRETE. I'm staying in a self-catering apartment hidden away on one of Chania's many labyrinthine alleys.  Almost right opposite is a local shop where I stock up on pasta, vegetables and olive oil.

The owner is super friendly and doesn't speak a word of English. On my first visit he points to a giant glass demijohn by the door, which contains…