The Amber Revolution kicks off

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I'll never forget the first time I visited Friuli, in North-East Italy. Due to some truly inspired scheduling by the local consorzio, our group of wine writers and bloggers visited three iconic cellars in Friuli Carso on a beautiful autumn morning. All were outstanding properties with amazing wines, but the one that sticks in my memory most is Sandi Skerk.

Deep around in Sandi's stone lair, dug painstakingly out of the dense Carso rock, we tasted his white wines and the Ograde blend, all made with long skin contact. These wines blew my mind with their profound hues - russet gold, autumnal amber, even shocking pink in the case of the Pinot Grigio. And the flavours - so intense, lively and quite unlike any other white wine I had ever tasted before.

This was my "orange wine" enlightenment. It wasn't the very first time I'd ever tasted a white wine made with extended skin maceration. That honour must go to an Elisab…