The dreaded Palomino - Daterra Viticultores

Tasting at a busy wine fair is hard. Where to go, what to taste? Did I miss something mindblowing amidst the crowds? A tall, rather statuesque lady with impressive dreadlocks grabs my attention. I offer my best/only Portuguese "Posso provar os vinhos bran

(Almost) every week, I select an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed my attention. View the whole series here.

I've just returned from an inspiring if exhausting week in Portugal, culminating in the joyous riot that is Simplesmente Vinho - the artisan wine "off-salon" started five years ago by João Roseiro and friends. This year's 84 producers came not just from every corner of Portugal, but also overflowed into Spain.

Busy wine fairs can be challenging. Where to go, what to taste? Did I miss something mind-blowing amidst the crowds? On cue, a tall and rather statuesque lady with impressive dreadlocks grabs my attention. I offer my best/only Portuguese "Posso provar os vinhos brancos?", she retaliates with a stream of Spanish. I catch the word "Galicia" and little else. We negotiate a passage to the safe waters of English.

The dreadlocks belong to Galician Laura Lorenzo, ex-winemaker and viticulturist at Dominio do Bibei, and now owner/winemaker with h…