Cellar hygiene über alles
The latest instalment of Hannah’s adventures in the Ardeche finds her developing a strange relationship with a pneumatic press. And realising that the hardest work at harvest was not in the vineyard, after all.
Steininger – Riesling Seeberg 2017
Generous fruit, lychee, kiwi fruit, quite aromatic and exotic, with gorgeous acidity that makes it sing. Such fruit purity and vitality here, a wonderful effort and so enjoyable already.
Nigl – Riesling Hochäcker Privat 2017
Exotic, perfumed nose of angelica root and passion flower, similarly exotic fruits on the palate, dancing acidity, superbly elegant and poised. Such a delicate pretty wine, but so focused and multi-dimensional too. Excellent.
Schmid – Riesling Sunogeln 2017
Green apple and citrus fruit, nervy acids, concentrated but reined in and bone dry. Almost a dead ringer for Gruner with its ripe appley fruit. A very satisfying drop.
Dolle – Grüner Veltliner Gaisberg Alte Reben 2017
Feels a bit smothered in oak. There is fruit and acidity in there, and minerals too, but right now this isn’t much fun. It’s just fresh bread and vanilla.
Hirsch – Grüner Veltliner Renner 2017
Spicy, white pepper aromas, delicate notes of preserved lemon (salty and citrus), subtle and rather pretty. Very refreshing to have this lighter style, which has plenty of nuance and potential – there are subtle notes of honeycomb too.
Jurtschitsch – Grüner Veltliner Loiserberg 2017
Tight, mineral almost chewy GV. Amazing structure, super focused fruit (barely ripe pear and quince). Dances across the palate with all manner of crushed rock and mineral notes. Exciting, elegant, extraordinary expression of GV. Nose has hints of hay, ripe Read more
Jurtschitsch – Grüner Veltliner Lamm 2017
An exciting, unusual expression of Grüner Veltliner – kumquat, mango, racy acidity, almost buttery, but completely avoids being overbearing or fat. Nose has some lightly aromatic notes (lychee, but nothing like as O.T.T. as Gewürztraminer). Still a baby but beautiful, Read more
Leth – Grüner Veltliner Scheiben 2017
Full, creamy GV with a gorgeous leesy consistency, nice blossoms on the nose and a mineral streak running through its considerable length. Just cut pineapple fruit and white pepper. Very expressive and enjoyable now.
Jurtschitsch – Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben 2017
Tight fruit core of lemon and mandarin, quite concentrated but bone dry and oh so refined. Carries itself effortlessly on the finish, just a bit more texture and generosity than the regular Heiligenstein. Already sensational, this should be amazing in Read more