The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines

Month: May 2020

Parés Baltà – Amphora Brisat 2019

It’s a good demonstration of clean winemaking (and high quality fruit) with no added sulphites, but otherwise this lacks excitement. Where is the fruit? Xarel-Lo’s appley exuberance is lacking. There is acidity, but not enough of it. Brisat is an Read more

Parés Baltà – Electio 2017

According to the tech notes, this wine fermented in oak for around 18 days (a mix of new and used barrels). But I suspect it was then further aged in oak, because it’s rather marked from the wood. With fruit Read more

Parés Baltà – Neolitic 2018

Made from a rare and once nearly extinct variety native to Catalonia, this is a fascinating wine. At first glance, you think it’s going to be glou-glou material: light(ish) in colour and in heft, fresh and fruity and that’s it. Read more

Buchmayer – Rosé Natural 2019

A bit darker than the classic Provencal rosé, but still in the salmon-pink zone, this is a lively and expressive creature that plays more to the bone dry, austere side of rosé. It’s got a slight spiciness – think peppered Read more

Buchmayer – Riesling Natural 2018

This might be the most successful of all the wines I’ve yet tried in Thomas Buchmayer’s “natural” range. Like its bedfellows, it’s spontaneously fermented, unfiltered and made with very minimal sulphites. From 2019 this will be Demeter certified as well Read more

Buchmayer – Ried Kalvarienberg (Rot) Natural 2016

A really enjoyable red blend, which shows loads of dark cherry and loganberry fruit – with a refreshing lack of wood influence. It’s pretty substantial stuff, with a chunky structure that shows off the Cabernet, plus some chocolately smoothness from Read more

Buchmayer – Pet Nat Cuvée Weiss 2019

I guess this pet nat would have been well behaved, had the crown cap not become divorced from the plastic O-ring. So I got a very loud pop, but no gushing. This definitely looks to have been disgorged, although it Read more

Edvard Reya
7 minute read

Five up-and-coming Slovenian winemakers

Simon profiles five up-and-coming Slovenian winemakers, from four different regions – Emeran Reja from Brda, Fedora from Vipava, Polič from Istra plus Matic & Keltis from Štajerska.

Tchotiashvili Kisi 2016

I loved this super precise, grippy Kisi from micro-winery Tchotiashvili in Kakheti (Eastern Georgia). It has really typical papaya & baked plum fruit, with serious structure, but perfectly ripe tannins. With four years of age, this is really hitting its Read more

Buchmayer – Gelber Traminer Natural 2018

Noticeably fresher and higher in acidity than its 2019 twin, this cloudy, macerated yellow traminer (4 weeks skin contact and no added sulphites) has herby, yellow plum and fresh apricot aromas which also carry over onto the palate. It’s certainly Read more