The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines

Month: June 2020

Weingut Heinrich – Ried Alter Berg Blaufränkisch 2017

A typically restrained and highly drinkable effort, from Heinrich’s growing vineyard parcels in the Leithaberg hills. The nose is intensely peppery (think green peppercorns) on opening, with pretty black cherry fruit, and a little “sous-bois” too. This is the first Read more

Magula – Devín 2018

Devín is a crossing of Gewürztraminer with Roter Veltliner, made particularly for Slovakia’s extreme continental climate. Pungent aromatics, as typical for this variety – wild herbs and elderflower (hinting at the parentage). Quite ripe on the palate, loaded with citrus Read more

Radovic – Inkanto 2018

This is Peter Radovic’s big blend (and first bottled vintage), with three as yet unidentified varieties that grow in his vineyards along with the Vitovska and Malvasia. The skin contact was just two days. Pear and hot stone on the Read more

Pepe Mendoza Casa Agricola – Velo Flor Anfora 2017

I am amazed by the consistent quality of everything I’ve tasted from Pepe Mendoza, a winemaker with years of experience who started out working in a very conventionl way (for large wineries) and has now paired his winemaking and viticulture Read more

Parés Baltà – Amphora Roja 2019

This is one of a small range of “micro-vinifications” made by Maria Elena Jimenez and Marta Casas (the two winemaker sisters in law). It’s not my favourite in this series. A bit hot and heavy, lacking in acidity and freshness. Read more

Parés Baltà – Calcari 2019

Attractively chalky and crisp, with a nice nuttiness and zest. Pear fruit, a bit of lees texture (there was some battonage). A great, easygoing wine that has character and drinkability – nothing profound but does exactly what it needs to Read more

Piri Wein – Sylvaner Naturel 2018

I got an early sample of this wine, not sure what the final label will look like. This is a fascinating wine that shows the potential and chameleon-like nature of Sylvaner in Burg-Layen. Here the fruit is from old vinyeards Read more

Weingut Heinrich – Muscat Freyheit 2018

Heinrich’s 2018 vintage is the first where his orange wines (the ever-expanding Freyheit line) were fermented and aged entirely in amphorae. They were frankly wonderful before. Now they are extraordinary. Moving to clay rather than large format oak has enhanced Read more

Magula – Oranžový vlk 2016

This “Orange wolf” is very spicy and zesty with an extraordinary nose that reminds me of pine needles, Frankincense or other incense rocks. Packed with exotic kiwi and kumquat fruit notes, beautiful acidity and a zesty finish. This has really Read more

Radovic – No 1 2018

This is a special cuvée, made to celebrate the winery’s first year of production. Here the skin contact was extended, and the blend is just Vitovska and Malvasia Istriana – again fermented in stone vats. It’s weightier and more harmonious Read more