The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines

Day: 5 November 2020

Ambra – Khvanchkara 2019

Kvanchkara is a naturally semi-sweet style that was supposed to have been Stalin’s favourite wine. Sadly most Kvanchkara these days is produced on an industrial scale and tastes like it. So what a great joy to taste this more artisanal Read more

Tchotiashvili Vineyards – Mtsvane limited 2016

Vaguely sepuchral on the nose, but very typical Mtsvane territory – peach and papaya with an iodine hint. Typical of this producer, the wine has been released when it’s ready to drink – and it’s now relatively soft-textured and very Read more

Naphery Family Winery – Goruli Mtsvane 2019

Thin and insipid, with am aftertaste that reminds me of washing up liquid or detergent. There’s a suggestion of ripe apple fruit on the attack, and some tannins, but overall this feels lacking in expression and brutally manipulated. Filtered to Read more

Vazisubani – Kakhetian Mtsvane 2017

Loaded with ripe, bruised fruit – apricot, apple and pear and subtle notes of woodsmoke and dried tarragon, this qvevri-fermented Mtsvane misses a little in terms of aromatic expression. It’s pretty polite for this hugely tannic variety though. The attack Read more

Vazisubani – Kisi 2018

Very typical Kisi aromas of papaya and woodsmoke, with some medicinal and iodine notes and hints of tea leaf and whisky cask. Chunky and satisfying, with tannins aplenty but a nice sense of balance. On the more savoury, herbal side Read more

Babaneuris Marani – Kisi 2017

The village of Babaneuris is looking for official recognition as a top micro-zone for the Kisi grape variety. Here there’s a bit more altitude as the vineyards are in the Caucasus foothills. The nose shows some fresh apricot and roasted Read more

Abdushelishvili’s Marani – Rkatsiteli 2018

A well balanced qvevri Rkatsiteli, with a ripe apple core and some smoky tannins on the finish. The aromas are also of apple with a raisined hint – a clue to the high ripeness level here. Overall a little one-dimensional Read more

8Millenium – Rkatsiteli 2017

This is a kind of “own label” produced for the wine importer of the same name in Almere, Netherlands. Rather stewed nose, and for a relatively young wine this lacks freshness. Nonetheless, it’s packed with flavour, and all the typical Read more

8 Millenium – Rkatsiteli 2018

This is a kind of “own label” produced for the wine importer “8 Millenium” – three Georgian friends now based in Almere, Netherlands. The wine is actually made by a family member back in Kakheti. A very well balanced qvevri Read more