The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines

Month: February 2021

5 minute read

Four wines and a wormhole

Hannah thinks she’s opened some kind of portal by calling up memories of 2020’s four most momentous wines. And we’re not going argue!

Cortém – Jaen Pinot Noir 2014

Super spicy, nervy blend with both the sour hit of Jaen and a vegetal kick from the Pinot. The nose is rather herbal and vegetal, the acidity a bit jarring, Overall, this lacks harmony.

Cortém – Petite Syrah 2015

A little smoky and reduced on the nose, with some bitter chocolate notes and orange peel. Then the acidity kicks in. Overall, while this has freshness and lift, it’s a little on the green, unripe side.

Cortém – Cabernet Franc Petite Syrah 2016

Fascinating blend here, with plenty of lift from the Cab Franc, which also lends a bit of its softer, velvety texture to the proceedings. The fruit is spicy, with crushed black berries. There’s a purity to the fruit, yet plenty Read more

Cortém – Jaen Touriga Nacional 2016

Iodine, hint of violets, inkwells and herbs on the nose. Attractive sour twang and a hint of bitter cacao. The tannins creep up on you, they’re grippy but not OTT. Characterful and with potential to age further.

Cortém – Syrah Petite Syrah 2016

Quite reductive, with redcurrant and cacao on the nose. Nice herbal notes, with a green pepper/pyrazine twang and an attractive bitterness on the finish. Good freshness and fruit, tannins are well integrated.

Deovlet Wines – Pinot Grigio Ramato 2019

This is Ryan Deovlet’s first vintage of a ramato (a homage to the old Venetian style of lightly skin fermented Pinot Grigio). He told me he was inspired to make this wine after reading Amber Revolution. Just so you know! Read more

Cortém – Sauvignon Blanc Viognier 2015

Baked fruits and roasted herbs on the nose, but with more aeration some freshly sliced pear also peaks out. The aromatics of the Sauvignon have mutated into a sage-like character – which reminds me slightly of Styrian skin macerated Sbs. Read more

Tunia – Chiarofiore 2015

Very deep coloured, tannic and full of roasted twigs, tea leaves, hints of caramel and woodsmoke. The acidity is spellbinding, but all the components haven’t quite come together. A hint of botrytis (spices and marmalade) is noticeable on the nose. Read more