The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines

Month: February 2022

Podere Ortica – Agadè 2020

Although it’s a bit tight and rubbery on the nose, this rosé is juicy and charming on the palate, filled with soft strawberry fruit and a hint of balsamico. There’s a suggestion of phenolics on the finish – just enough Read more

Old Boy – Hey Boy! Ancestrale 2020

You have to love acidity for this. There’s a sour jolt of bitter lemon on the attack that is quite extreme, although it also has a nice yeasty side note. It’s early picking taken to the max. The bubbles are Read more

Weingut Röck – Voglia 2020

Juicy, joyful and fruit filled, this is a soft, lightweight Blauer Portugieser with lively acids and a delicately nutty finish. Perfect glouglou material, with a sense of alpine freshness and deftness.

Weingut Röck – Caruess Weiss 2020

There is the barest suggestion of Gewurz’s aromatics here, but in general the nose feels muted. The fruit feels generous and mouth-filling, quite tangy but not especially characterised. There are notes of green plum and citrus zest

Weingut Röck – Paula 2020

This lacks expression in the nose, but it’s lively with plenty of acidity on the palate. However, there isn’t a whole lot of character: the fruit feels one-dimensional, and I wonder whether filtering the wine has robbed it of some Read more

Weingut Röck – Johanna 2020

A bit shy on the nose, but full of white pepper on the palate, with a nicely judged medium weight and crisp finish. Suprisingly typical, given that this is Grüner a long way from home. The finish feels slightly austere.

Weingut Röck – Petra 2020

Some fresh herbs and a slightly custardy hint on the nose, with bright, limey fruit and good concentration. This is a slightly atypical Nuller-Thurgau, which doesn’t show the floral character of the grape, but instead has a slightly steely, mineral Read more

Podere Ortica – Ade 2020

Very expressive and aromatic on the nose for Trebbiano – filled with ripe pithy apricot and white peach, nicely fruity and crisp on the attack but then goes in a slightly bitter, green direction on the finish. The very very Read more

Old Boy – Hey Girl! Rosé Col Fondo 2020

2nd fermentation stimulated with chardonnay must. Calling your rosé “Hey girl” might be questionable in the 21st century, yet this is a delicious frizzante style that really shows off the plus points of both grape varieties. There’s a lick of Read more

Perego & Perego – Audrey B 2017

Quite a bizarre wine – with three tannic, high alcohol red varieties, and then finishing fermentation in the bottle like a pét-nat. The bubbles are fun, but the style lacks freshness and is hugely tannic. The fruit feels oddly lean Read more