The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines

Month: March 2022

Tinhof – Sankt Laurent 2017

Spicy and even a little animalistic on the nose, with crushed raspberries and plum fruit. It has that velvety, expressive fruit and texture on the palate, with bright fruit acids and fine tannins with a sappy, nutty finish. A wonderful, Read more

Tinhof – Leithaberg 2019

Filled with cherry compote and a hint of black pepper on the nose, this blend of vineyards from various sites around the Leithaberg DAC has spine tingling freshness and acidity, with delicious sour cherry fruit. Structurally, this is still a Read more

Tinhof – Leithaberg Eisenstadt 2019

Slightly muted and compacted on the nose, this Blaufränkisch from two vineyards (Fehlmühl, Reisbühl) on the slightly lower lying plains around Eisenstadt has spicy, brambly fruit. The oak ageing (16 months in large format barrels) has marked the wine a Read more

Faber-Köchl – Grüner Veltliner Natur 2020

Sadly the new barriques used for a part of this wine overawe the rest of the wine. There is spine tingling acidity and tangy fruit, but it can barely survive the onslaught of oak. The attack shows lovely taut fruit Read more

Faber-Köchl – Grüner Veltliner Ried Saazen 2020

Lightly peppery, with attractive pear fruit on the nose. Surprisingly and pleasingly rich and honeyed on the palate, with slightly tangy quince and brined (preserved) peach. The concentration and richness are impressive, for a wine that still remains fairly light Read more

João Tereso with some 80 year old vines. Photo (C) Simon J Woolf.
7 minute read

The new Lisboa: Chinado

Simon visits João Tereso, a sound engineer turned winemaker with a penchant for breathing new life into old vineyards, and for crafting delicious natural wines in the Lisboa region.

Pét-nat illustration No 1, by Zebediah Keneally. (C) Noble Rot, reproduced with permission.
8 minute read

Auf Wiedersehen Pét

Simon gets ranty about pét nat, natural wine’s ubiquitous fizz. This article was originally published in Noble Rot Magazine, issue 27.

Rodrigo Martins in the cellar at Adega de Alcobaça
8 minute read

The new Lisboa: Rodrigo Martins and Espera

Simon visits consultant and natural winemaker Rodrigo Martins, to learn about his change to working exclusively with organic viticulture and his personal Espera project. We also talk about his frustration with the DOC classification process in Lisboa.