Simon reviews Henry Jeffreys’ book Vines in a Cold Climate, which deals with the English wine revolution of the last few decades.
Natural wine was supposed to be about ideals, but did it just became a style equated with cloudy, funky wines?
Originally published in Noble Rot issue 32.
Simon reviews the latest in Peter Stafford-Bow’s series of satirical novels. Does Eastern Promise deliver the goods?
I like the whimsical faux-French label here! (even if I suspect Bruno might have the INAO on his tail soon). It says “Shishan Appellation d’Istrie controlée” – Šišan being the village from whence this Syrah hails. The nose is ripe Read more
Quite evolved and herbal on the nose, there is a delicious, salty energy to this wine, driven by great acidity and lift. It’s ever so slightly lacking in fruit on the palate though, with more woody, herby notes playing centre Read more
If you like Loire Cab Franc, the slightly animalistic nose of this blend will appeal. The wild child that is Teran speaks clearly here, even though it’s a bit player in the blend. There are dried herb, iodine and dried Read more
There is no mistaking Teran’s feral bark on the nose here – and I mean that in a good way! It’s characterful and intriguing. This is undoubtedly quite developed for a seven year old wine, with the kind of backed Read more
An intriguing wine with a certain lightness of touch – despite fairly high alcohol. Long skin contact (40 days) seems to accentuate the feeling of dried apricots and herbs. The wine stayed on its lees for a whopping three years, Read more
Made by Irena Trapan (Bruno’s wife), this is a deeply pink hued rosé with delicious freshness and energy. There is a subtle tannic bite that I loved – it just increases the feeling of life and zest, and will make Read more
Rich and complex on the attack, with a tight, nutty finish that is really bone dry. I was expecting this to be a typical big, fruit bomb of a Malvasia, but it surprised me. With almost 4 years on the Read more