The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines

Winery visits

João Tereso with some 80 year old vines. Photo (C) Simon J Woolf.
7 minute read

The new Lisboa: Chinado

Simon visits João Tereso, a sound engineer turned winemaker with a penchant for breathing new life into old vineyards, and for crafting delicious natural wines in the Lisboa region.

Rodrigo Martins in the cellar at Adega de Alcobaça
8 minute read

The new Lisboa: Rodrigo Martins and Espera

Simon visits consultant and natural winemaker Rodrigo Martins, to learn about his change to working exclusively with organic viticulture and his personal Espera project. We also talk about his frustration with the DOC classification process in Lisboa.

Marta Soares tastes the Casal Figueira Antonio 2020
9 minute read

An Artist’s Legacy: Marta Soares and Casal Figueira

There’s a dramatic backstory to Marta Soares’ life, but this artist and winemaker wants people to focus on her present and her future, not her past. We visit amazing old vineyards on the slopes of Montejunto in Northern Lisboa, and get to grips with Marta’s take on wine, local culture and art.

Skerlj Vitovska
4 minute read

Matej Skerlj shows the elegance of Vitovska

The wonderful skin macerated Vitovska from Skerlj isn’t just a great wine, it’s also a demonstration of how different this region is from its Friuli-Venezia-Giulia neighbours.

Bina 37 at night
3 minute read

Is Bina 37 Georgia’s most bizarre winery?

“Sorry, but this is absolutely nuts!”, says one member of our group during a visit to restaurant/apartment/winery Bina 37, and he’s merely stating what everyone else is thinking. We’re talking with Zura Natroshvili, a medical doctor turned traditional winemaker. Well, almost traditional. Most winemakers don’t install their cellars on the 8th floor of a city residential block.

Iago Bitarisvili, Kartli, May 2017 (Photo (C) Simon Woolf)
5 minute read

Iago Bitarishvili – The Chinuri Master

Chinuri is one of the more important white grape varieties indigenous to Kartli, and Iago BItarishvili is without doubt its best exponent. His focus on the grape is absolute, inviting comparison to the Vodopivec brothers in Friuli who focus solely on their native Vitovska. Iago makes two Chinuri wines, one with and one without skin contact.

Martin Lichtenburger and Adrianna Gonzalez in their cellar, March 2017
4 minute read

Muscat Ottonel, a love story

Sometimes the path of true love really does alter everything. When Austrian Martin Lichtenberger and Spaniard Adrianna Gonzalez met in 2007, during their winemaking studies in California, they might not have predicted that they’d soon be making wine together on another continent. Not to mention a skin contact Muscat Ottonel (an orange wine).

Simon holding Portuguese grape varieties
7 minute read

Making orange wine in the Douro Valley – Part 1

It started with a seemingly innocent question from Oscar Quevedo: “Simon, do you know how to make an orange wine?”. Oscar isn’t stupid of course, he knew damn well I’d have something to say on the subject. We were sat Read more

intellego-elementis-2014
3 minute read

Balance is everything – Intellego Elementis

Elementis 2014, like its predecessors, is 100% Chenin Blanc, fermented on the skins for 3 weeks and then matured in used French oak for 9-10 months. Jurgen gets incredible freshness and concentration from his dry farmed fruit. That’s given this wine a lightness of touch and purity that is quite startling.