Ancestral beauty from Viñátigo, Tenerife

Simon thought he knew what white/orange wines from the Canary islands taste like. Until he tried Viñátigo's Elaboraciones Ancestrales Blanco.

If you're British like me, Tenerife probably has mixed associations. Package holiday nightmare, full of "rosbifs" behaving badly, or volcanic island paradise? Wine might not be the first plus point that comes to mind, but the island's output has become really dynamic of late. The black volcanic soil and ancient vineyards at altitudes of up to 1000 metre…