Burgenland's burgeoning orange scene: Andert Pamhogna

Some interesting Austria producers are well nigh invisible to the English speaking world, and at a guess this is why I'd never heard of Michael Andert (Andert Wein) until late last year. His tiny estate (4ha) in Burgenland (Easterly Austria, near the Hung

(Almost) every week, I select an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed my attention. View the whole series here.

Even in our global age, wine and where it's sold can be very regional - and those regions are sometimes demarcated by language as much as anything else. There are countless small Austrian producers who sell their wine entirely within the country's borders - and if they export then the first port of call is invariably Germany, a big, thirsty wine market which just about shares the same tongue. (If you've ever spent time in Austria, you'll know what I mean).

That can make some interesting producers well nigh invisible to the English speaking world, and at a guess this is why I'd never heard of brothers Michael & Erich Andert (Andert Wein) until late last year. Their tiny estate (4.5ha) in Burgenland (Easterly Austria, near the Hungarian border) has been certified biodynamic since 2003, and the white wines are all fermented on their skins.

I was …