Burgenland and I have history. Its capital Eisenstadt was my home for most of 2013. It fuelled a love of Blaufränkisch that has only deepened over the years. The region is also famed for being one of the most progressive when it comes to viticulture and winemaking. It’s also one of the warmest parts of the country, and one of the only Austrian regions with a serious red wine culture.
Here is my guide to 20 favourite wineries, together with details on how to visit, where to find the wines and roughly what they cost.
This guide covers only the northern part of Burgenland (Leithaberg, Rust and Neusiedlersee) - not Mittelburgenland or Sudburgenland, which are separate sub-regions.
Part 1 (below) - Leithaberg and Rust (12 wineries)
Part 2 (coming soon) - Neusiedlersee (8 wineries)
These wineries tick my boxes for good farming - organic or biodynamic, whether certified or not, and minimal intervention in the cellar. None of these guys add yeasts or anything else apart from a pinch of sulphites. As regular readers know, I’m agnostic on that point, and I can tolerate a bit of filtration here and there too.
Only wineries that I’ve personally visited are listed.
Key: 🌿 organic certified, ⚘biodynamic certified, 0️⃣ no added sulphites
Tip: When viewing this guide in a web browser, click on the lh side of the screen for a handy index to all the wineries.
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Leithaberg
Butting up to the west side of the Neusiedlersee, the Leithaberg hills rise to a modest 300m A.S.L. Blaufränkisch, Chardonnay and Weissburgunder are the most revered varieties, and perhaps the best suited to the predominantly limestone and chalk soils.
Visting: Eisenstadt makes a good base, just 45 minutes from Vienna by car or train. It’s a small town with limited accommodation - book far in advance.
Projekt Wildtyp 🌿0️⃣
Boris Kovacic has his origins in Herzegovina and Hungary. He and his wife Andreja relocated to Sankt Margareten in 2021 after almost two decades working in stem cell research. He wanted to follow his dream, and now rents 12 different plots, with mainly old vines and some field blends (gemischter satz). Most of these historical gems have been ripped out in the region. The cellar is also rented.
Kovacic’s philosophy is to work completely without additives and just let the grapes do what they want to do. The wines are thrilling and often quite grippy. My top picks are Linsnwuscha 2022, a macerated Gemischter Satz (red and white varieties) loaded with spicy freshness and complexity, and Gramuri 2022, a beautiful Blaufränkisch fizzing with minerals and juicy cherries. Schlawina 2023, a skin-fermented Neuburger, is promising but needs a year or two for the tannins to settle down.
Wines cost between €15 - €20 in Austria and Germany. Buy online from Vin Noord in NL. no US availability. Check the winery’s website for detailed availability info. Contact Boris for shipping rates within the EU.
Hauptstrasse 14, St. Margarethen. Email: projektwildtyp@gmail.com, phone: +43 676 55 060 22. Visits by appointment.
Georg Prieler 🌿
Not only does Georg possess one of the biggest smiles in Leithaberg, he also makes some of its most precise and delicious terroir-orientated wines. Low-intervention is probably how he’d describe his cellar work. There is nothing avant garde or ‘funky’ here, but the wines demonstrate his attention to detail and a gradual evolution to an ever more puristic style.
With plots of Blaufränkisch in two top sites - Marienthal and Goldberg - tasting with Georg is like a mini-masterclass on the Leithaberg. The oak regime has been gradually reduced, with increasing portions of the reds now aged in amphora. More fruit and varietal definition - I’m a fan.
Entry level wines start from around €12 - €15 in Europe, or $22 in the US. Goldberg or Marienthal are €70+ in Europe, or around $105 in the US. Don’t miss the amazingly good value Pinot Blanc! The winery ships direct to Austria and Germany.
Hauptstraße 181, Schützen am Gebirge. Email: weingut@prieler.at, phone +43 2684 2229. Visits by appointment.