Burja Estate - Selection Bela 2010

A biodynamic beauty from the Vipava valley in Slovenia

Last week's wine was definitely an edge case, with only two days of maceration, yet utterly inhabiting the "orange wine" end of the flavour spectrum. Here's another.

Primož Lavrenčič's 7.4 hectares are situated in the stunning Vipava valley, about 40 km east of the Italian border. Vipava is interesting for having one of the oldest documented traditions of extended skin maceration - local priest Matija Vertovec wrote Vinoreja za Slovence (Winemaking for Slovenians) in 1844, and not only recommends skin macerations ‘from 24 hours to 30 days’, but also talks about "the old Vipava method" of using a week's skin contact for white grapes.

Lavrenčič plays with the tradition a bit, using 8 days of maceration in his white blend "selection", but at a controlled low temperature. This approach is frowned upon by traditionalists who feel that temperature control prevents full extraction of the flavour from the skins. Be that as it may, Burja selection is successful on its own very elegant terms.

Burj…