Calmel & Joseph - classy wines from Languedoc Roussillon

The Languedoc-Roussillon still has a bit of a name for being cheap - it's France's most important wine region in terms of quantity, with an extraordinary 299,000 hectares under vine (that's three times the size of Bordeaux, also not exactly small), but you have to hunt for the quality.

There are increasing numbers of overperforming AOP regions - some of my favourites include Faugères, Saint Chinian & Minervois. The best wines from these villages pack the punch that you'd expect from this southerly part of France, but achieve elegance and finesse on top.

I was curious when I received three bottles from Carcassonne-based micro-negociant Calmel & Joseph. This isn't a huge conglomerate pushing out oceans of dross, but rather a small business founded by oenologist Laurent Calmel and partner Jerome Joseph, who personally handle all the winemaking, and keep a high degree of control over their producer's farming methods and harvest dates. Their branding is eye-catching, modern and rather lovely…