Sweet and sour - A vertical of Chatzivaritis Goumenissa

When I was invited to taste a vertical of wines from Goumenissa, I wasn't initially sure if that was the wine region, producer or grape variety. Goumenissa turns out to be a tiny but highly rated appellation in Macedonia (Northern Greece), not too far from its bigger brother Naoussa.

Chatzivaritis Estate is one of five quality-minded producers in the region. Daughter and oenologist Chloi Chatzivariti took us through their range during a very enjoyable and relaxed evening at Olivity, Amsterdam West.

Negoska

Goumenissa's USP is Negoska, a local red variety which is typically blended with Xinomavro. Negoska produces a much softer more fruit driven wine than Xinomavro, so the resulting blend is theoretically more approachable, and at a younger age. The Goumenissa PDO strictly demands between 70-80% Xinomavro, and a corresponding 20-30% Negoska. Wines also have to be aged in oak for a minimum of 12 months.

An interesting piece of trivia (interesting to geeks like me, at least), is that Negosk…