Denis Montanar's ever patient Uis Blancis 2012

Simon J Woolf discovers that Denis Montanar's skin fermented white blend Uis Blancis isn't just good, it's great, on a second hearing.

Almost every week, Simon selects an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed his attention. View the whole series here.  

There are times when I really hate going to large wine tasting events. Sure, they're useful for a few hours of immersion, and with a favourable wind they sometimes yield new discoveries. But more often than not, good wines flash past unheralded, bad wines stick in the craw, and the end result is often little more than palate exhaustion and yet more damage to one's precious enamel.

Take Denis Montanar's wines as an example. I've only tasted them once before, at Rawfair in 2014. When I go back to my just-about-legible tasting notes, they were generally very positive. But I didn't have a strong memory of these bottles - for the last three years, they were filed in my head under "also ran". That turned out to be quite unfair, on the evidence of the Uis Blancis I opened today.

Montanar has a smallish estate (roughly 20 hectares) in Friuli Acq…