Earth, grapes and maceration - Claus Preisinger's Edelgraben GV

Claus Preisinger shows that Burgenland's Grüner Veltliner can really deliver, if it's macerated for five months in a Georgia qvevri.

Claus Preisinger took on the responsibilities of managing his family's three hectares of vines 18 years ago in 2000, following formative winemaking experience with Hans Nittnaus. Based in Gols, close to the Neusiedlersee (Europe's largest inland lake), he still has an air of youth about him, despite now being one of Burgenland's most experienced hands when it comes to farming biodynamically (the estate is certified since 2009) and making wine in the most natural way possible. He's expanded the estate to 18 hectares, and built a rather snazzy new winery.

Claus is also a pioneer in the region when it comes to macerating white grapes, and using amphorae, having acquired some Georgian qvevris in 2009. His Edelgraben wines are all fermented in qvevri and left with their skins for five months, before further ageing in old (neutral) barrels.

Burgenland isn't considered to be a top location for Grüner Veltliner (that honour belongs to lower Austria, and most specifically to Wachau), yet Claus m…