Feminine Faugères

Brigitte Chevalier at the Outsiders tasting, London Nov 2012

I'm a big fan of Faugères - and if asked to describe the character of the wines from this small but over-achieving Languedoc appelation, I'd probably use words like "muscular", "spicy" and "intense" - but also "elegant" and "structured". However, tasting Brigitte Chevalier's Domaine de Cébène cuvées had me frantically recalibrating.

Brigitte's terroir is at the North-Eastern limit of the Faugères AOP, with a sizeable maritime influence from the nearby Mediterranean. That's an important element in her wines, for the sea breezes definitely moderate the hot, Southern French climate, helping her achieve elegance and balance.

Try her Ex Arena IGP Oc 2011, made from a Grenache/Mourvèdre blend grown on sandy soils near Bezier. Delicate, mineral red fruit with a rather ethereal structure. Yes, the words Mourvèdre and delicate did just appear in close proximity.

Belle Lurette Faugères 2011 is Brigitte's equally subtle and delicious redu…