Smoke on the water - Hungarian Wine House tasting

Colourful labels on the Hagymási Pincészet stand
Any bon-viveur worth their salt will be familiar with Hungary's most famous vinuous export - Tokaji Aszu. This luscious yet refreshing nectar has assured Hungary's place on the international wine map for the last 400 years. Additionally, those of a certain age may remember when Eger Bikavér (AKA "Bull's Blood") was king. Sadly this deep-hued, spicy red wine became devalued during the 1980s and 1990s, and has all but vanished from the shelves in the UK. But, as I learned at a tasting organised by the Hungarian Wine House last week, there's considerably more to Hungarian wine than just Tokaji and Bull's Blood.
Five producers were showcasing their wines, ranging from smaller family wineries to a large Tokaji producer, and covering almost every corner of the country where quality wines are made. It was heartening to see one organically certified producer amongst the five, and also to try several of the many indigenous varieties still cultiva…
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