A maceration masterclass at Il Carpino - Ribolla Gialla 2011

If you want to have a masterclass in how skin contact affects white wines, there's probably no better place than Franco and Anna Sosol's tasting room. Il Carpino is their 17ha estate, situated on the same winding hill road as Radikon and Gravner, in Friul

 Every week, I select an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed my attention. View the whole series here.

If you want to have a masterclass in how skin contact affects white wines, there's probably no better place than Franco and Anna Sosol's tasting room. Il Carpino is their 17ha estate, situated on the same winding hill road as Radikon and Gravner, in Friuli Collio.

Il Carpino is unusual in vinifying five separate varieties as both young, fresh wines and also in the extended skin contact style that's traditional here. Tasting these wines in pairs is fascinating. Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay adapt wonderfully with maceration. Friulano seems more troublesome, at least at Il Carpino where the young fresh 2014 is lively and honeyed, but its macerated 2011 cousin is lacking in charm and a tad too oxidative.

The opposite is true with Ribolla Gialla, for me one of the most boringly neutral grapes when made as a simple, fresh wine - even Pinot Grigio has more ch…