Milan Nestarec - Antica Tramin 2013

A first meeting with a Czech grower who became a standard bearer for natural wine in Moravia, at Raw Fair in London.

Skin contact traminers are a bit like London buses - you don't see one for ages, then all of a sudden, two appear at once. I discovered this Czech beauty at last week's Raw Fair - always an inspiring event, and a fertile hunting ground for orange wines.

The Czech republic might not be the first place you associate with quality wine, but when you realise …