Modernist traditions of Istria

Most people will have a view about the classic "old world" wine producing nations - France, well it's expensive, the name of the grape isn't on the bottle, they're still the greatest wines in the world, and so forth. Spain - they use a lot of oak, it's all about Rioja, er..  and they make good value fizz. Italy? A multitude of confusing grape varieties and regions, those funny straw bottles... and more cheap fizz from Prosecco. Going a little further off-piste, ask for opinions about wine from Portugal (well, it's fortified, or Mateus Rose. Is there anything else?) or Hungary (Bulls Blood? Aren't they a bit rustic? Ah and that lovely sticky stuff from Tokaj) you'll probably still find well embedded views. But what about Croatia?

I've asked many wine lovers, foodies and near neighbours from Italy and Slovenia for impressions of the Croatian wine industry. Assuming I'm not just met with a blank stare, opinions range from derisory to neutral - but rarely upward from that. This is entirely…