12 years of Xinomavro
![Chania old town (Photo courtesy Sander Hoogendoorn - CC attribution license) Chania old town (Photo courtesy Sander Hoogendoorn - CC attribution license)](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fad8e5306-5928-4dd4-9335-bcd9cb181a8c_1024x768.jpeg)
SUMMER 2003, CRETE. I'm staying in a self-catering apartment hidden away on one of Chania's many labyrinthine alleys. Almost right opposite is a local shop where I stock up on pasta, vegetables and olive oil.
The owner is super friendly and doesn't speak a word of English. On my first visit he points to a giant glass demijohn by the door, which contains…
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