Does Riesling need a revolution?

Despite being the darling of the wine trade for what seems like decades, German Riesling still has an image problem in the UK. Why is it that we can't get the abominations of Liebfraumilch, Blue Nun and Black Tower out of our heads? Perhaps we're simply too attached to our folk memory of the 1970s - an age of bad taste, questionable fashion and worse wine.

Noble Revolution wines, the brainchild of ex-lawyer, sommelier and self-styled "Riesling revivalist" Alex Down, is on a mission to change our poor perceptions. Alex's modus operandi is simple: abandon the fluted bottle, the gothic script and the ferocious complexity of the labelling. Instead, the two noble revolution Rieslings have clean, simple branding with a Ronseal ethic and an eye on mainstream consumption.

I really like this idea. I need no convincing about the joys of German Riesling - crisp, nail-biting acidity, sharp-focused fruit and those fantastic mineral finishes are a sure way to my heart. I'm also more than happy to hav…