Molto Forte biodynamics, mezzo-forte wine

Wineries can soak up a lot of money - as per the popular industry joke "How do you make a million in wine? Answer: Start with two million". The landscape is littered with vinous vanity projects created by wealthy industrialists, downsizing media tycoons or hollywood stars who can afford to blow fortunes on pipe dreams. Some endure, others don't. But never mind budgets which might be the envy of small countries - can these operations actually produce good wine?

This was my apprehension when Podere Forte's people reached out to my people a few weeks ago (Alright, I have no people, but they still reached out). Their invite was to two Michelin star restaurant Park Heuvel in Rotterdam, by private car no less, with the promise of a special tasting menu and the opportunity to get to know their wines. My first instinct was to decline. With such an extravagant level of hospitality, I could already hear the cries of "shill" echoing around the interwebs.

In the end, I accepted for the overriding r…