The taste of Ramaz Nikoladze's Tsitska-Tsolikouri

What you should know about Ramaz Nikoladze is that he eats chillies whole, listens to punk and has a great former stray cat that he once drove 3.5 hours to the vet, who slept on our bed and whose name we said wrong for days until someone finally asked who we were talking about. He lives in Nakhshirgele in a country where guests are delivered from God but where we were delivered with luggage.

Ramaz also makes wine: a no skin saline wave of pineapple, sorry Tsitska; a 3 month all skin, no stem Tsolikouri (hot peach globs of jam on brown toast drunk with sun steeped tea); a wild strawberry-bodied, minty blackberry minded Aladasturi from grapes he buys from old man Didimi, and the burning glow orb 3 month all skin, all stem Tsitska-Tsolikouri that we three bottled x 500 over two days juggling patchy electricity between a pump the size of a sewing machine and the freezing A.C.

But it's the Tsitska-Tsolikouri  '15 that reminds me of his wife Nestan’s cooking. Of outdoor kitchens with neatly s…