Load of old bull - does biodynamics need to explain itself?

"When I taste this wine, I imagine I'm walking up the dry river bed next to the Tatou vineyard, just after the rain. The smell of the wet stones is utterly distinctive."

This is the way that Colin Ross, vineyard manager at Seresin, likes to describe wine - no fruit descriptors, no talk of tannins, structure or pH. During a leisurely tasting at Michael Seresin's house, Ross positively exuded his passion for the land, soil and vines. The wines were a rare delight.

Seresin needs little introduction in the UK, where it has built a strong brand. Apart from consistently individual and high-achieving wines, the estate's also famous as one of New Zealand's first to convert fully to organic farming. Experiments with biodynamic farming techniques began in 2000, with full conversion reached in 2007. Certification followed in 2010.

Esoteric

Many find the detail of biodynamic farming methods a little esoteric or hard to pin down. The headline summary (from the Demeter international site) is not so di…