The Real Deal at Gut Oggau

I spent a weekend immersed in biodynamics and cosmic energy

Gut Oggau’s ‘labels with the faces’ are some of the most recognisable bottles in the world of natural wine. The names behind the label are Eduard and Stephanie Tscheppe-Eselböck, who created the brand after they purchased an old abandoned winery in the village of Oggau, Burgenland in late 2006.

I first tasted the wines during a visit in 2013, and was hugely impressed by their elegance and their vibrant energy. I have been a fan ever since. The couple’s dedication to biodynamic viticulture and non-interventionist winemaking is well known. For the global community of natural wine lovers, they have become A-list celebs, adored and admired wherever they go.

Yet some feel that their slick marketing and effortless social media communication is too good to be true. Could ‘real’ growers ever be this good at presenting and explaining what they do? And how boutique is their production - has it scaled up to meet demand? Are the wines still as exceptional as they once were, and can they justify the high prices?

When Steffi invited me to join a weekend deep-dive at Gut Oggau this August, I jumped at the chance. I wanted to pull back the curtain, observe the farming up close and personal, and understand whether the detractors had a point.