Graves doesn't have to be serious

Who doesn't love a joyful, everyday wine - especially if it's fairly priced Bordeaux. There's an unfortunate view, particularly prevalent in the UK, that Bordeaux wines fall into only two categories - those sold at super-premium prices for the obscenely rich, and those that are little more than execrable filth. The truth is that there are many examples offering great charm and outstanding value available in between these two poles.

Vieux Chateau Gaubert 2010 was the standout wine at a recent supper club organised by Stolen. All the wines were  chosen to support the theme "Bordeaux shows its colours" - showcasing the versatility of Bordeaux's more modest red, white and rosé styles in food matching. So, we had an unusual and very good sparkling rosé with the amuse-bouches (I could have done without the foie gras, why do people still feel this is necessary for a "serious" culinary experience?), an experimental pairing of a Sauternes with the starter (Château Doisy Daëne 2005) - with the o…