Vodopivec, a perfect expression of Vitovska

Simon discovers why Vodopivec hates being associated with the terms orange or natural, and why he thinks ego is the biggest problem in wine.

"The first problem for wine producers is not oidium, it's ego", states Paolo Vodopivec disarmingly. "I don't want my ego in my wines".

When I visited Vodopivec's extraordinary, cathedral-like cellar in Italy's North-easterly Carso region last year, I was travelling with the photographer of my book (and good friend) Ryan Opaz.

Our main issue was getting Vodopivec's consent to take photographs. He grumpily conceded to us snapping the cellar - "you can find pictures on the internet anyway, what do I care" - but was extremely resistant to appearing in the photos himself. In the end, Ryan brokered a cunning compromise by explaining that his photo of the qvevri cellar would lack any scale unless there was a person in it. You can see the outcome above. (the actual photo appears in my book).

Vodopivec is a stoic character, but he's not shy. However his feeling that ego should not dominate the wine extends to a dislike of giving interviews, or receiving journalists - or having his picture taken. …