The Dakishvili family have rebranded a bit – this delicious qvevri-fermented Kisi used to be bottled under the Vita Vinea label (nominally the project of Giorgi’s son Temuri). But now it’s “Dakishvili family selection”. The high quality of the wine hasn’t changed. Sourced entirely from the family’s own vineyard, there is ripe roasted plum and creamy papaya fruit, hints roasted twig, with lovely lift and freshness. Structurally restrained but with typical tannins, a hint of caramel on the mid-palate. The finish is sappy and deliciously grippy. A very fine, yet also accessible effort.