Geyerhof – Grüner Veltliner Ried Steinleithn Erste Lage 2019

Sculpted and quite lean, this shows a very different side to Grüner, leading with a limey, citrus peel burst but then slowly unravelling to reveal hints of pepper, pear slices and rock salt.

This is shy and delicate creature, but one with considerable nuance and pose. It’s also developing quite slowly, and will easily hold for another few years.