This doesn’t promise much on the nose, with a rather cabbagey, cooked fruit note, but on the palate it’s got lovely chewy structure and bright acids. Right now it feels a bit monolithic, and lacking in varietal expression – but there’s a really fresh, citrus kick that promises a bright future. Noting how well the 2016 developed, I am wary of judging this wine too soon….
In terms of the technical detail, this is similar to Magula’s 2017 effort, with skin and stem fermented Welschriesling and Gewürz, but this time the Devín was also skin fermented (all between 2-4 weeks), and some of the final blend was aged in a 220 litre terracotta amphora (an Artenova egg). Time will tell how successful this evolving technique is going to be!