Maitz has moved away from such overt use of new oak in even his Grosse Lage wines, but this 2017 still shows quite marked oak influence.
It feels much more like a considered attempt to take Styrian Sauvigon in a Burgundian direction, and it doesn’t entirely work. The texture is certainly attractive, and there is acidity. But ultimately the wine is slight leaden, and even after four years does not feel harmonious.
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