Although Luis likes to joke about the natural wine world, he’s made an incredibly convincing intervention-free wine here. This no added sulphur, unfiltered Alvarinho has all the hallmarks of Soalheiro and the gorgeously tangy, almost floral aromas that the grape produces in this far northern corner of Vinho Verde (Monção and Melgaço).
The juiciness of the fruit is impressive. There’s a little more hint of fresh herbs and crushed earth than you might expect in the regular Soalheiro. And of course this wine is lightly hazy. But it’s as pure as its name, with a clean and laser-like beauty.
Overall, it’s wonderful stuff, so typical of its region and so much fun to drink. Soalheiro say it is a divisive wine on their website, but I find absolutely nothing difficult about it – what’s not to love? I would also recommend keeping this for another year or two. It has what it takes to improve further.