A typically restrained and highly drinkable effort, from Heinrich’s growing vineyard parcels in the Leithaberg hills. The nose is intensely peppery (think green peppercorns) on opening, with pretty black cherry fruit, and a little “sous-bois” too.
This is the first vintage where Blaufränkisch was aged in amphoras – for no less than 29 months (part of the wine was also aged in 500 litre barrels, no doubt as the winery were still acquiring sufficient amphorae). Gernot Heinrich believes that the clay vessels are just better – in every way – than barrels. It’s hard to disagree, when you taste the pure fruit and elegance of this wine, with no distractions clouding the vision.
The icing on the cake, though, is the delightful earthiness and hint of dried herbs that makes itself known on the finish – it’s just a little hint that this may be almost clinically perfect winemaking, but it doesn’t come with any loss of character, varietal typicity or vineyard expression.