The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines


System of a Dão - illustration by Dennis Eriksson. (C) Noble Rot
11 minute read

I Come from Nowhere (Wine Classification is an Ass)

Wine classifications guarantee provenance, but why have many of their controlling institutions become de facto style police?
Originally published as “System of a Dão” in Noble Rot issue 28.

Drinking Against Sinking
8 minute read

Why you should support Drinking-Against-Sinking

What would you do if the entire economic backbone that supports your business looked like it could collapse? Some might throw in the towel, but not Florian Schuhmann-Irshik (Quantum winery). A young winemaker based in Austria’s Weinviertel, Schuhmann watched as the Covid-19 pandemic unfolded around him, and then decided to act. He’s come up with a simple, flexible scheme that supports the wine ecosystem. It’s called Drinking-Against-Sinking and you should support it today!

Gernot Heinrich - Graue Freyheit 2016
4 minute read

Freedom at scale – Heinrich Graue Freyheit

Anyone who thinks that larger wineries can’t do quality, or show a serious commitment to sustainable, minimal-intervention production methods, should check out the wines from Gernot and Heike Heinrich in Burgenland, Austria. Simon takes a spin through their skin contact range.

Gumpoldskirchenergenossenschaft Zierfandler Grimling Auslese 1984
6 minute read

Gebeshuber Zierfandler – best at 70 years old?

When Johannes Gebeshuber purchased a failing cooperative winery in the heart of Austria’s Thermenregion, his spoils didn’t just include 25 hectares of old vines and a beautiful vaulted cellar. He also became the guardian of an extraordinary wine library, with Read more

Hofer Orange Sauvignon Blanc 2017 from Waldherr
4 minute read

Supermarket surprise – Hofer Orange 2017

Austrian supermarket chain Hofer (AKA Aldi) isn’t the first place one expects to find an orange wine for sale. But Waldherr’s “Orange” Sauvignon Blanc 2017 was on the shelves in December.