The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines

biodynamic

Oronce de Beler with his Percheron draft horse in 2009 (he ceased this activity in 2015). Photo courtesy La Maison Romane.
26 minute read

Uncomfortable bedfellows? Burgundy and natural wine

Why is it so difficult to talk about natural wine in Burgundy? Simon explores the increasingly blurred line between classical and natural techniques in the region.

Originally published February 2023 in Issue 3 of Fondata magazine.

Valentina Passalacqua insta shot
27 minute read

Valentina Passalacqua – an inconvenient truth?

The arrest of Valentina Passalacqua’s father, on charges of using illegal labour gangs (caporalato) has shocked the natural wine world – who were previously in love with Valentina and her wines. Simon J Woolf investigates and sets out the background and the context for this challenging affair.

6 minute read

Molto Forte biodynamics, mezzo-forte wine

Wineries can soak up a lot of money – as per the popular industry joke “How do you make a million in wine? Answer: Start with two million”. The landscape is littered with vinous vanity projects created by wealthy industrialists, Read more

3 minute read

Julien Meyer – Crémant d’Alsace Brut “0” 2010

I love Champagne. But whenever I start talking about it, I fear being labelled elitist. But, but… Grower Champagne? And then there are those Champagne enthusiasts who think any other form of effervescent wine inferior. They huff and puff and Read more

Clemens Busch Mosel Riesling Trocken O 2015 © Taka Takeuchi
3 minute read

Clemens Busch – Mosel Riesling Trocken “O” 2015

To celebrate the launch of Simon’s Kickstarter campaign for his book Amber Revolution, here’s a German “orange” wine made from Riesling. German Riesling still has an image problem in the UK. And Germany is not the first place that comes to Read more