The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines

biodynamics

Oronce de Beler with his Percheron draft horse in 2009 (he ceased this activity in 2015). Photo courtesy La Maison Romane.
26 minute read

Uncomfortable bedfellows? Burgundy and natural wine

Why is it so difficult to talk about natural wine in Burgundy? Simon explores the increasingly blurred line between classical and natural techniques in the region.

Originally published February 2023 in Issue 3 of Fondata magazine.

Anne Sperling in the Southbrook vineyards
4 minute read

Sterling stuff from Sperling & Southbrook vineyards

Simon discovers two very fine orange wines made by Canadian winegrower Ann Sperling, who also happens to have spearheaded one of the world’s first official quality classifications for orange wine.

Corrado Dottori, La Distesa, May 2017 (Photo (C) Simon Woolf)
5 minute read

La Distesa’s Corrado Dottori – the Frank Zappa of orange wine

I’m wondering around a small winery in Marche’s Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi region. Frank Zappa pours me barrel samples of bright orange juice. Any minute now, I expect him to strap on his guitar for a blistering avant-rock solo. Then I pinch myself.

OK, I’m actually at La Distesa, and this is Corrado Dottori, who makes the wonderful “Nur”, a skin fermented white blend.